Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

From the preceding remarks it would naturally | cause, whether it pertained to a citizen or his counbe supposed that Cicero excelled in invention. try he made it his own; and to secure the accomNor would such a supposition be wide of the truth. plishment of his object, he put in full requisition He generally surveyed a subject in its widest all his stupendous powers. Whatever was to be range, tracing its remotest as well as its nearest gained by flattery or censure, by luminous exposirelations. In this particular he is often exceed- tion, or perplexing confusion, by logical argument ingly defective; still, however, he rarely wanders or specious declamation, by inflammatory invective far from the point at issue, nor without a special or conciliatory address, he did not fail to perceive. design. His mind was so thoroughly furnished To his profound knowledge of man, is to be attriwith his " loci communes," or general propositions, buted the conception of his plans; to his consumthat he was always prepared to declaim, if not to mate oratory, their wonderful execution. reason, with an argument calculated to produce conviction.

66

With the name of Cicero, every scholar most readily associates the characteristics of his style. The ancient system of Jurisprudence, as is pro- Every one descants upon his magnificent diffusebably well known, was entirely different from the ness, the splendor of his imagery, and the harmony modern; and the success of the advocate did not of his periods. In his language it is easy to disdepend so much upon the authority of law, as upon tinguish the elevation of philosophy, the elegance the persuasion of eloquence. Hence, when the of literature, and the artificial propriety of rhetoric. statutes conflicted with an orator at the bar, he la-The fertility of his imagination invariably supplied bored to establish the equity of his client's cause him with an exuberance of ornament; and it is not by any argument, which philosophy, or literature, to be denied that the excessive ardor of his feelor human nature could furnish him. This will ex-ings, and his ambition for theatrical effect, someplain the highly romantic reasoning of some of times betrayed him into expressions, which read in Cicero's orations. Take, as an apposite example, the calm retiracy of the study, suggest the nature his splendid vindication of the poet Archias. His object is to prove that Archias is a Roman citizen, and if not, that he richly merits so superlative a distinction. But what is the nucleus of his argument? "Archias is a Greek Poet; has sung the praises of the 'Mistress of the World,' and is, Upon Cicero's merits in relation to memory and therefore, entitled to the privileges of citizenship, delivery it is unnecessary to dwell. That his even if he can produce no evidence of naturaliza-memory was of no ordinary character, may be intion." ferred from his vast acquisitions, and from the per

of the extravagant bombast, rather than the sublime and the beautiful. After all, there have existed but few men whose compositions will afford a happier illustration of Dr. Johnson's definition of a good style-"proper words in proper places."

The originality of Cicero, and his remarkable fect readiness with which he brought his knowledge promptitude of invention, appear to the greatest to answer his purposes. That his delivery was advantage in such efforts as those against the infa- unexceptionable to a Roman audience may be premous Cataline. Indeed, a Cataline and a Mark sumed, and with propriety too, from the total silence Antony were to Tully, what Philip of Macedon of his enemies, than whom none were ever more was to Demosthenes. As to invention, then, virulent and implacable, and who would have been whether you consider his power in elegant gene- highly disposed to magnify the most trivial failings ralization, in brilliant flashes of imagination, in ve- into the blackest faults; and every one must rehement invective, or in "playfulness of wit," it is member, who is at all familiar with the history of hardly possible to exaggerate the merits of the sub-his life, his indefatigable efforts, under the guiject of this sketch. In the distribution of the ma- dance of the most skilful teachers, to impart to terials of a discourse, no man ever excelled him. his eloquence and his gestures every attainable Whether his object is to conciliate affection, to produce conviction, or to move the passions, he proceeds to his task with a sagacity and a skill, which exemplify a thorough acquaintance with

human nature.

excellence.

Fortunate then, it may be said with emphasis, was the illustrious Orator of Rome, in his age and his country; fortunate, indeed, in genius and education; eminent, if not preeminent, in all the diThe productions of Cicero, as every scholar will visions of his favorite art! But to the reproach, admit, are sufficiently tinctured with egotism. This the indelible disgrace of his countrymen, he fell a fault, however, is cheerfully overlooked by the hapless, though glorious martyr, to the cause of student who wishes to learn from a consummate Liberty. master the secrets of his art. It was his invariable practice to study his cause in especial reference to the judges or auditors before whom he was under the necessity of speaking. The arrangement of his materials, therefore, would depend entirely upon circumstances. Having once embarked in a

It is delightful to survey the age of Cicero, for it was peculiarly an age of eloquence. The beautiful couplet of one of our own Poets, though intended for a wider range, is admirably apposite here, Nor rough, nor barren are the winding ways Of hoar antiquity, but strewn with flowers."

44

Many, who devoted themselves to the profession spring of every thing like independent, generous, of arms, as well as those who sought distinction sublime, popular eloquence. This may be called, in the Forum, enjoyed an enviable reputation for perhaps, vain speculation. But an appeal to the their powers of oratory. Cicero was alone in the proper source of evidence, will satisfy any honest qualifications of finished and enchanting, but he inquirer that it is something more than mere fanwas not alone in powerful and persuasive elo-ciful theory. Look at the eloquence of Greece quence. Though eloquence like poetry is one, as and Rome. Survey the impassioned oratory, that Cicero frequently remarked, its forms are exceed- has wielded such a commanding influence, for the ingly various. It is easy, therefore, to select a last century, in Great Britain and America; and distinguishing trait in each of the most eminent then say if the genius of popular eloquence does speakers of antiquity. With remarkable brevity not seem almost identified with the genius of popuand accuracy, Quintilian-a writer of great dis-lar freedom. The eloquence of Greece began with tinction-characterizes the most reputable orators the exercise of liberty and independence in conduring and after the time of Cicero. After men- sultation and debate. In the Imperial City its oritioning Crassus and Hortensius as examples of the gin was essentially the same. In both countries it middle style, he proceeds with the following gra- reached its meridian but just before the overthrow phic description. "Tum deinde efflorescat non of republican institutions. When it was no longer multum in se distantium temporum oratorum in- possible for patriotism to exhibit its purest and gens proventus. Hinc vim Cæsaris; indolem sublimest forms, it was no longer possible for eloCalii; gravitatem Bruti; acumen Sulpitii; acer-quence to win its proudest and most brilliant bitatem Cassii; diligentiam Pollionis reperiemus. triumphs.

In his etiam quos ipse videmus copiam Senecæ; With regard to the connexion between eloquence maturitatem Afri; jucunditatem Crispi; elegan- and learning, it cannot fail to be perceived that the tiam Secundi." These criticisms of Quintilian most splendid efforts of the orators of antiquity are cannot fail to satisfy any candid mind, that Cicero found contemporary with an elevated condition of was not the only eloquent man of his age; and that intellectual refinement. The most finished orators the century following his decease, was not entirely were deeply imbued with the spirit of elegant litedestitute of honorable representatives of a manly rature. Philosophy, too, and especially that of the professional oratory. But such was not long the immortal Plato, had a controlling influence in formcase. For when the beautiful edifice of the Repub-ing their minds, and characterizing their eloquence. lic collapsed and fell, it buried in its ruins not only "Ancient Mythology," whether really or not bethe liberties of Rome, but every vestige of such lieved by such illustrious men as Pericles or Tully, magnanimous eloquence, as has crowned with a was employed by them with singularly happy adwreath of unfading verdure the memory of Cicero. vantage, and tremendous effect. When all other It has been correctly observed, that all that is considerations were impotent in their effect, there interesting or important in ancient secular elo- was some hope of success from recourse to the quence, precedes the administration of the Cæsars. sanctions of religion. How completely irresistible The history of sacred elocution would commence would have been many of the thrilling appeals of about a century later. And, notwithstanding all the ancient orators, had the true God of the unithe despotism of the throne, all the luxury and verse been the object of their reverence, and been dissipation of social life, and all the frivolous trap-substituted in the stead of their "Dii Immortales." pings of fashionable declamation, the genius of the Christian religion operated so powerfully upon a few men of sterling and brilliant intellect, that the four centuries previous to the downfall of the gorgeous Empire of the West, furnish us with numerous examples of oratory, worthy of its benevolent and pious inspiration.

Its

There is, assuredly, nothing in heathenism which is suited to foster the spirit of eloquence. Its terrors may serve an important end, when used by a man whose eloquence has been inspired from a different source. Not so with christianity. direct tendency is to give freedom to the soul, and, of course, to prepare it for the excitions of oratory. In concluding this imperfect description, it may Revelation is a source, an inspiration of eloquence: not be amiss to contemplate some miscellaneous Paganism, in its best estate, is but an auxiliary; considerations, which a view of ancient eloquence and, as an auxiliary, how feeble and despicable, is calculated to suggest. The origin and progress when compared with the religion of Him, who exof professional oratory in the republics of antiquity, pired on Calvary. cannot fail to impress the mind with a firm convic- Without expatiating further upon this delightful tion of its important relations to the government theme, it will be sufficient to observe that so far as of a people. Freedom of deliberation and debate external circumstances were concerned, the explaare absolutely indispensable to its very existence. nation of the distinguishing character of ancient It is as obvious as any fact in the philosophy of eloquence, will be found in the tendency of liberal human nature, and the history of our race, that institutions, and the strong incitements of a high liberal institutions are the source and the main-standard of popular taste, combined with the fortu

nate occurrence of great occasions. And in regard (veillance of the police, and that immediately on their arrito the visible causes of its rapid and premature de- val in a place, if they intend to tarry but a brief period, they cline, it is enough to refer to the enervating influence of luxury and despotism. These were the mighty and resistless means in stinting the growth of that race of intellectual giants, whose speeches are looked upon, even at this distant day, with the same superstitious homage, that would be felt in gazing upon some majestic river, "whose current, deep, vast, and waveless, rolls past us silently, but will roll on forever." Hence, too, the rise of a vain and despicable class of pretended orators, to whom may appropriately be applied, with a slight alteration, the inimitable satire of Horace

"Mediocribus esse oratoribus, Non homines, non Dii, non concessere columnæ." Chillicothe, Ohio, Nov., 1840.

LETTER FROM MALTA,

To the Editor of the Southern Literary Messenger.

A TRIP TO EPHESUS,

FROM THE NOTE BOOK OF A LEVANTINE.

cannot be too quick in making their preparations for departure-let them not leave their passports until the last moment to be examined by the authorities, or it is ten chances to one they may be detained a week, ere they can get them again in their possession. This remark will be found truly applicable to Germany, Italy, France, Poland, and Russia. Those of our countrymen who intend to pass through either of these, (for passports and police offices,) truly humbugging and provoking countries, will do well to bear the same in mind. We may be permitted to speak rather feelingly on this subject, having once been sent over our travelled track upwards of one hundred miles, to get the signature of a man whom we had ignorantly neglected to call upon, while passing his jail-hid office. The impudence of the person, when made acquainted with the circumstance, was almost insupportable: appearing to consider it a good joke, he with blinking eyes and mustachioed lip, coolly remarked, "'pon my word I have some reason to consider myself an important person, as it is not at all unfrequent, for foreigners to be sent some twenty or thirty leagues on purpose to make my acquaintance and obtain my signature." With this the seal was affixed, one dollar was paid, and we had liberty to return to the place from which we had started some fifty hours before.

We are, however, digressing. On the afternoon of the twenty-eighth of March, when all our party were seated at table, Hamet, who was sent by the Governor to act as our guide, and who was made answerable with his head for our safe return to Smyrna, entered and asked when we intended to commence our journey. On being told at three o'clock on the morrow morning, his countenance immediately fell, and saying "God is great," put his hand to his forehead in token of submission to our will, as he left us to ponder

Departure from Smyrna-River Meles-Turkish Burying
Grounds-Village of Sedicui- Band of wandering Tur-
comans- -Ephesian Plains-Arrival at Aisaluc-Ruins-over his singular conduct. We had among our party a
Christian Church-Temple of Diana.

"I have beheld the Ephesian's miracle-
Its columns strew the wilderness, and dwell
The hyena, and jackall in their shade."

On one of the last days of March, 183-, my friend P-
and self joined a party of English, French, and Italians,
who were preparing to make a tour through the beautiful
province of Natolia. The purpose which, more than any
other, we had in view, was to pitch our tents on the plains,
and ramble among the ruins of Ephesus. Seeking our
consul, whom we had never met, and whom, in all proba-
bility, we should have never known, had it not been for this
intended jaunt, we asked for a permission to leave Smyrna,
and to be furnished with a teskeray to enable us to travel
in safety. It chanced that on the morning when we called,
the star-spangled banner was waving over the consular
residence, hoisted as a compliment to those of our coun-
trymen who were approaching from a "cruise among the
islands." In those days the dark deeds of piracy and mur-
der were of frequent occurrence in the Grecian Archi-
pelago-cruisers of all nations were out, but no one was
more distinguished for her activity, or more feared by the
pirates, than the "Yankee sloop," as she was familiarly,
though not insultingly called.

most amusing person, who had for many years been a resident among the Turks, while attached to the French embassy at Constantinople-to him we with one accord appealed, and he, skilled in the Turkish character and acquainted with their superstitions, explained the downcast look of our guide in the following manner. "Perhaps," said he, "you are not aware of the statement of Vegetius, made even before the appearance of Christ on earth, that the Egyptians and Romans could not be induced to commence their voyages before the tenth of March; this was the time when the fig tree put forth its leaves, and Hesiod declared navigation to be safe. Now, as we all know the Smyrniote Turks to be a bigoted race, perhaps it will be found that Hamet is unwilling to start on his journey until some such sign of the season has passed-if so 'die sa,' when we shall get out of the city." Fearing that our friend might be right in his conjectures, we sent our Greek servant for the aged guide, who quickly returned, taking the chair we offered, and drinking the wine we gave him. After emptying the third glass, (for a Turk seldom leaves anything in his cup, by which the contents may be known,) Hamet confessed, that as the true Musselman looks to the east for the rising sun to say his morning prayers, so he had for the last five days been gazing at the heavens to see a flock of birds pass over the city, from the south to the north, this being the only sign by which he could feel assured A Turkish officer cannot, while over his pipe and coffee, that the winter had passed, and Mahomet would prosper be made to understand how it is possible a person should his journey to Ephesus. "There is but one God, and he wish to hasten-and days elapsed before the document was is God; there is but one prophet, and he is Mahomet," forthcoming to enable us to start on our intended trip. As said Hamet, as he stooped to place his hand on the floor, it resulted we were indebted to Osmanglon, or to a two- being unable to touch it with his head, as is customary tailed Pasha, of some such like name, for a lesson in pa- with these people when such a holy name is mentioned. tience, which to us in after-time was of no little service."These flocks have not yet passed, and until they have, I All Americans, and consequently republicans, must learn, cannot leave my home to travel with those who confess that when travelling in Europe they are ever under the sur-themselves to be the enemies of the most holy, the prophet

of Mecca." Our guide, while saying this, was perhaps | near by, which is still called after the Grecian poet, a pornot aware that we had been furnished with a firman from tion of the Iliad is said to have been composed. Nature the Sultan-which, at the risk of his life only, he could has done much, and art not a little, to render this one of disobey; go he must, and the time of starting was en- the most romantic, secluded, and melancholy spots we had tirely at our option. It happened, however. most fortu-ever seen. The gently sloping banks of this river are ocnately, that in the early part of the evening, the wind came cupied as grave-yards for the Musselman dead-even at out from the "chambers of the south," the dense black the early hour we passed, some half dozen weeping females clouds, as they passed over the city, discharged torrents of rain, and on the following morning the cranes so long sought for, had been seen by our guide, as we fancied, only in his dreams, for no one else was aware they had passed-however, he was satisfied, and we were certainly pleased to have this only obstacle to our immediate departure so speedily and easily removed.

were visible, engaged in prayer, kneeling among the sculp tured marbles, which were covered with golden letters, and shaded by groves of the weeping willow, and hedges of the young and evergreen cypress. If there is a place on earth where one might be said to be in love with death, it is here.

The first twelve miles from Smyrna to Sedicui, or, as its The clock of the small Catholic chapel in Strada Franca name implies, the city of love, we passed in an hour and had noted the hour of six, ere our party was mounted, our a half-would we could say the remainder of our jaunt was mules laden, and Hamet spurring his horse, had told us all accomplished at the same pleasing pace. At our starting were ready for the journey. This was indeed a moment of the horses were fresh; the road, if Macadamized, could not excitement; we were nine Franks, all armed, dressed in have been better; all the party in high spirits, and riding the costume of the country, with turbans on head, and for a break fast-certainly four good reasons for our finding sandals on feet, seated in Turkish saddles, (which from ourselves in so short a time at the well filled table of our our experience we would advise a traveller never to take, kind and jovial companion. We well remember the deliwhen he can find an English one,) and mounted on Arab cious pilau, a dish which a Turk only knows how to prehorses. The remainder of our party consisted of a Catho-pare, and which those only can fancy who have travelled lic priest, who was going some twenty miles on the road to in Asia Minor. After leaving the Meles, with the excep. administer spiritual relief to a sick brother, three Greek tion of a tumulus, which is called the tomb of Andremon, servants, Hamet, who must not be forgotten, and a friend and a race-course which was made by an Irish Marquis, of his, of whom we knew nothing save that he had the best we had seen nothing to interest us until we entered the horse, and was marked as a man of some importance, by pretty village, which, for more than a century, has served his order set in diamonds. The first half hour of our ride as a country residence for many of the most respectable was consumed in winding through the filthy streets, which and wealthy families of Smyrna. Sedicui has long been in any Christian city would hardly be designated as lanes. celebrated for the vivacity of its Grecian belles, and for There being no common sewers, and the Frank portion of the elegant hospitality which has for the last threescore Smyrna being built on a plain, these narrow passages, after years been extended to all travellers by the Dutch families a heavy rain, serve only as a receptacle for the dirt and of Count d' Hockepied and the present consul Jacob Vanfilth that accumulates and is washed down from the hill lennep. For the civilities extended to our party we could behind, which is thickly inhabited by Jews, Armenians, only acknowledge our indebtedness, as hundreds of all and Turks. That the plague and other pestilential dis- nations had gratefully done before us. At nine o'clock we eases should at all times prevail here, is not a matter of were again mounted, and slowly leaving the neat white surprise; and were it not for the natural pureness of the dwellings, whose windows were filled with lovely girls, air, what with the miasma from the neighboring marshes, who, as we passed, waved their handkerchiefs and bade us and generated filth of the people, Smyrna would soon be for a time farewell. Often, after the minaret which marked depopulated. She has, however, at times been grievously the site of the village was lost in the distance, did our afflicted, and especially so in the year 1815, when seven- thoughts return to Sedicui; in that brief hour which we teen thousand of her inhabitants, were, in the brief space passed with our friends, incidents occurred which are at of three months, suddenly summoned into eternity. In- this moment pleasingly borne in remembrance. stances were told us of men at that period who, as they tedious ride of four miles in a southerly direction, we had were digging graves for the dead, fell in, and were them-pointed out to us the Turkish town of Giomarasi, once a selves entombed with the corpses which they had assisted in bringing for burial. Passing through the outer gate, we saw on an eminence on our right, at the distance of a mile or more, the deserted castle, in its dilapidated state. Tradition says that this fortification was erected in part from the ruins of one of the seven churches of Asia Minor, which in the days of the apostles, stood on the same hill, a little to the south. We had rambled over this very spot, and had the site of the Christian church pointed out by our Cicerone, but we confess that to this tradition of other ages we gave but little credence, feeling more inclined to admire the splendid scenery around, than the few scattered stones which lay at our feet, concealed as their history was, in doubt. After a few moments we were passing over a small bridge which covered the ancient "Meles"-a clear stream,* "shallow, in summer not covering its rocky bed, but winding in the deep valley behind the castle, and murmuring among the evergreens." It is now but a gently running rill, one which is, however, immortalized in ancient story, as on its borders Critheis was delivered of a son whom she called Homero Melsegenes; and in a cave

* Chandler in 1764.

VOL. VII-10

After a

flourishing place, but now nearly in ruins; a fate brought upon the inhabitants by their own rebellion, and by the ravages of the plague. Continuing the same course for another forty minutes, we arrived at Olanizzi, a collection of a few hovels, among which we passed without observing a single human being. Leaving this deserted spot, the remains of which told us that it had been destroyed by fire, we found our pathway for a long distance so completely lined with bushes and shrubbery, that it was with difficulty, even when dismounted, that we could get our horses through. At mid-day we had descended a steep hill, and were rapidly passing over a long, level, and beautifully verdant plain, watered by swiftly running streams from the high mountains which bordered its whole extent. The extensive grave-yards, and scattered fragments of pillars and dwellings, which we had continually pointed out to us in different directions, made it evident that this plain, where there is now only desolation and ruin, had once been the site of many densely peopled villages. Coming to a gentle ascent we saw the remains of Metropolis, a town which is said to be equi-distant between Smyrna, and Ephesus; here it was proposed we should dine, but a majority was in favor of continuing a short distance further, until we

night-fall overtakes them-like the Indians of the far west, and the Arabs of Africa, they will not dwell in villages; when born, they breathe the mountain air, and during life their only music is the cry of the wild animals which prowl around their rugged paths. Some historians have given the Turcomans a bad character, denouncing them as rcbbers and murderers. We tarried in their society some fifteen minutes, as we were all going in the same direction. The opinions we entertained were far different-to us they were communicative and kind. Asking us if we were hungry, they offered us of their frugal fare, composed of yaout bread and eggs. Wanderers as they were, they knew the taste of rum. We noticed several of their women employed in different ways; some were nursing their infants, while others were engaged in making preparations for their evening meal. Before we leave this brawny, hardy race, we will make mention of one of their customs, peculiar, as we judged, to themselves. Observing a cluster of people around a tree we rode up, and saw in the circle within, a camel which was held down, while a stout young man was with a hot iron, branding the gum above the upper teeth, leaving an indelible mark, by which, stray where the animal might, he would always be known.

The full moon was just rising over the eastern hills, when we found ourselves on a splendid bridge supported by arches, and under which was flowing the celebrated Cayster, a river arising among the Cilbianian hills; it is joined in its course by many streams and by the Pegasean lake. A pleasant ride for another half hour, over a good road, along which we breathed an air perfumed with fragrant trees and budding flowers, brought us to the end of our journey, to the door of our Kara Kolhane, in which we were to smoke our chebouk, and pass the night. On entering our mud-built hut, we soon discovered by the dim light from a glimmering lamp, that we were tenants in common of the same small apartment with twelve Albanian soldiers, who were the only residents of Aisaluc, the only guardians of the sacred Ephesian ruins.

should reach the small village of Jenikeny. We regretted | ancestors had done for centuries before them. These peothis decision, as we were prevented from examining the ple make their residence wherever they may be when ruins of the theatre, mosque and fortifications, which alone are left to tell that Metropolis ever existed. In all Asia Minor, after the seaport towns are left, no hotels are to be met with, and the only accommodation a traveller will find is at the cafanets, which are also made to serve as police offices, the keepers of these places being the spies of government. On our ride to Jenikeny we noticed a large tree with towering branches, under which we were told a sordid Armenian once slept, leaving his horse loose, and his baggage, containing a large amount of money, on the ground near by. Awaking in the morning he found his horse and treasure both missing. Entering the village he made his complaint to a Turkish officer, a stranger like himself, in the very room in which we afterwards dined. On the Armenian being asked his reason for not having sought his lodging in a cafanet, he replied, "Where Osmanglow reigns, who may be afraid to sleep?" Luckily for the miser, the one of whom he spake was the person he addressed. The Armenian was ordered to return and sleep in the same place. When the night was passed he found his horse grazing near him, his baggage in the place he had left it, and the thief hanging to one of the branches under which he had slept. This may give an idea of the vigilange of the police in Anatolia, and of the summary manner in which justice is administered by the Turkish prince who rules over the people of that once luxurious province. Anxious as we were to arrive at Ephesus before sunset, a very few minutes were allowed for our dinner, but even in this short period while our baggage was being arranged, an incident occurred which might have cost some of our party their lives had it not been for the timely interference of our Turkish companion. One of our party, a gay young Englishman, who was a perfect Philhellenist in feeling, and possibly a little excited, observing a pretty Greek slave standing at a neighboring door, advanced, and commenced a conversation which she seemed disposed to encourage. Her jealous old master, while they were conversing, loaded his musket, and pointing it with deliberate aim between them, discharged it; our friend on the instant drawing his pistol rushed through the passage and fired at the Albanian, whom before he had not seen, and severely wounded him, in his shoulder. Immediately retreating to the place where we were tarrying he made known his adventure, which we as quickly told to Hamet, and Tussuf Aga, our travelling friend, whom we had learnt was an officer high in rank in the Sultan's army, and vested with authority in the district through which we then were passing. It was through him alone the difficulty was arranged. At first some thirty armed fellows had gathered around our cafanet, swearing they would have the life of him who had wounded their master, and insulted his slave. As soon as Tussuf had finished speaking, they became as quiet as the moment before they had been noisy and abusive. Hardly were we on our horses before these assassin-like looking soldiers were in our apartment, quarrelling among themselves for the fragments which had been left from our dinner. Disposed even as we were to admire all we might see, yet for the three first hours of our afternoon ride, nothing came under our observation which was worthy of notice. The road extended over a hilly country, barren and uninteresting in its appearance. At four o'clock we were passing through a picturesque valley surrounded by mountains which were covered with oaks of an extraordinary size. We all stopped to admire this spot, so singularly retired and beautiful was its position. At five, we had entered upon the Ephesian plains. Leaving the ancient pavement to the right, we rode in a camel-path some four miles, until we overtook a roving band of Turcomans, who were driving their flocks, and carrying their black tents, as their

"Fierce are Albania's children yet they lack Not virtues, were those virtues more mature. We had been ten hours on our horses, and in that time had rode some forty miles. This is much too rapid travelling in Asia Minor, and were we to take this route again we would make it a two days' jaunt. When we landed, our animals were jaded, and ourselves fatigued. By the assistance of Tenni, our faithful steward, the pine bench upon which we were to sleep was soon covered with the provisions, which our landlady at Smyrna had so plentifully provided. The Turks, who were observing our every movement, appeared amused at our appetites, which fortunately for them were very unlike their own, or they would not be so easily satified with the bread and rice upon which they are compelled to live. If anything surprised them, it was the manner in which our coffee was made, and the quantity we drank. After various conjectures they concluded it was only dyed water, and good enough for Christian dogs. A long time ago, Sandys, on his visit to Ephesus, noted that the Turks lounged in coffee-houses the most of the day, and sipped of a drink called coffee, as hot as they can suffer it, black as soot, and tasting not much unlike ithe asks "is it not that black broth which was in use among the Lacedemonians?" True to the letter is this description of the liquid as now drank by these people throughout all Turkey, and indeed not only by them, but by most of the christians, who dwell in the Levant-it is an acquired taste, and not so unpleasant as one unaccustomed to it might at first suppose-most travellers prefer it, and when calling for their pipe, they at the same time ask for coffee, which

« AnteriorContinuar »